Recent content by DVDdoug

I'm not really an expert but I understand a little about it. It's usually related to multitasking and interrupts. Your operating system is always multitasking & interrupting, even if you're only running one application and that's why you need buffers. Usually that's buffer underflow (DAC) or...

The EU has some loudness limits but I don't know how it's supposed to work since different headphones & in-ears have different sensitivity. And I don't know if the EU version is different and if it is, I don't know if it's a hardware or software difference.

I don't know, but I don't buy "cheap-unknown" stuff off of Aliexpress or eBay, etc... Are you connecting to something that doesn't already have an analog output? Or something with an inadequate built-in DAC? The Apple "dongle"" got a good review. It's cheap and it may be available locally...

I don't see any problems with it. It should give you some isolation from the ceiling/neighbors (compared to solidly mounting it to the ceiling) but usually the walls/floors/ceiling are vibrated more by the soundwaves in the room, and the soundwaves pass-through the walls, more than any...

Right! With home theater, a subwoofer is required for the "point one" LFE channel and most people don't want 5 or more full-size surround speakers. If you have a local audio video store it's probably worth listening to some speakers before you buy, even if you don't buy form that store or...

I won't try to recommend an amplifier. The "sound quality" of most amplifiers is "fine". But most pro PA amplifiers have a cooling fan and some people are bothered by the fan noise. Note that without a surround decoder you lose the "point one" LFE channel. Of course you get the "regular...

Since I assume you are trying to optimize frequency response, it might make more sense to get a test record and measure the frequency response directly. Then you can experiment with adding capacitance (or using longer or shorter, or different cables). Note that the cartridge inductance and...

Of course power (Wattage) makes a difference (in available loudness) and you'll hear distortion if you over-drive an amplifier into clipping. Ignoring that, if you were to hear a difference it will most likely be noise (hum, hiss, or whine in the background). All active analog electronics...

Crimping can be fine but it takes the right tool to do it properly, which usually means a different-special tool for every different terminal, and they tend to be expensive.

You can't expect much bass from a 5-inch woofer. And even if you tune it lower there's only so-much bass SPL you can get out. Did you model the design with software and compare sealed & ported designs? (WinISD is free, or there are others.) That bump between 100 & 200Hz could be a box...

LCR = Inductance, Capacitance, Resistance. My multimeter can measure capacitance but I doubt it can measure low pF.

My handy-dandy spreadsheet says 70W is about 1.5dB louder than 50W. Noticeable, but probably not noticeable from one day to the next. 3dB is a power factor of 2. 6dB is a power factor of 4 10dB is a power factor of 10. I already ordered 12 gauge cables (do they need to be oxygen-free??)...

Look for a subwoofer that has a built-in crossover and line-level pass-through. The output of the preamp (or DAC) goes to the subwoofer and the output from the subwoofer goes to the power amp.

You're right. They are related but it's more about phase than timing. Out-of-phase waves can cancel. At the crossover frequency where the woofer in your main speakers and the subwoofer are both operating, you want the waves from all the speakers in-phase. If there is a distance-difference...

I found this. (You got lucky.) Digital doesn't degrade gradually like analog. Usually it's perfect (ones remain ones and zeros remain zeros) or the data gets badly scrambled and you might get no audio at all, or bad interruptions and clicks & pops. This isn't a perfect analogy but...