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Faceplates for Buckeye Amps

carbidetooth

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I think it was old Levinson gear that had visible vertical machining on faceplate... maybe something else. Anyway, that's my inspiration. We'll see how my vision translates after finishing. Imagine stainless socket head screws in recesses that will actually attach faceplate to case.

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carbidetooth

carbidetooth

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Sprayed matte conversion varnish on and mounted to amp. The Buckeye amp top cover extends a bit past the front of case, so I spaced the faceplate off by washer thickness and covered the resulting gap with thin foam tape. If I do again, I would change the way I passed the On LED through new faceplate. I machined a triad of holes in front and a pocket in rear. Filled with water clear epoxy and then machined flat. It looks cool on paper but would require some putzing around to get each hole to appear equally illuminated from different viewing angles. Perhaps a single hole would suffice. Most everything I do is an experiment of sorts. For me that's the fun part of this kind of stuff.


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napfkuchen

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The screws distract from the clean look in my opinion. I would use 3M double sided mounting tape (and maybe additionally hot glue but that probably won't be necessary). Works with heavier stuff for me so it shouldn't be a problem with these faceplates.
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carbidetooth

carbidetooth

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The screws distract from the clean look in my opinion. I would use 3M double sided mounting tape (and maybe additionally hot glue but that probably won't be necessary). Works with heavier stuff for me so it shouldn't be a problem with these faceplates.
Thanks for your thoughts, napfkuchen. To each their own concerning appearance, I imagine. I rather like the look of exposed hardware, but that's me. Concerning mounting tape; I considered it early in my design process, but ultimately decided mounting with hardware was the better path for a couple of reasons. Mounting tape is a booger to undo should I want to remove later. Additionally, I'd still have to stand the faceplate off the front to avoid interference with top cover. I think that if concealed mounting was the goal, I'd embed some threaded inserts in backside of faceplate and either screw from inside or, more likely, install studs into inserts.
I suppose I look at this from the perspective of bulk production and subsequent installation by end user. It's the way my mind works. After reading commentary on some of the Buckeye threads, I got the feeling some owners would like "dress up" options for their gear. That's where my thought process started, FWIW.
 

DWPress

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Where did you get your faceplate machined?

Works with heavier stuff for me

LOL, at first glance I thought your exciter was mounted on a baby car seat.
 

rdenney

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Thanks for your thoughts, napfkuchen. To each their own concerning appearance, I imagine. I rather like the look of exposed hardware, but that's me. Concerning mounting tape; I considered it early in my design process, but ultimately decided mounting with hardware was the better path for a couple of reasons. Mounting tape is a booger to undo should I want to remove later. Additionally, I'd still have to stand the faceplate off the front to avoid interference with top cover. I think that if concealed mounting was the goal, I'd embed some threaded inserts in backside of faceplate and either screw from inside or, more likely, install studs into inserts.
I suppose I look at this from the perspective of bulk production and subsequent installation by end user. It's the way my mind works. After reading commentary on some of the Buckeye threads, I got the feeling some owners would like "dress up" options for their gear. That's where my thought process started, FWIW.
That plate is thick enough to drill holes with a pilot size to 3/4 of the plate depth, and then bore them with an end mill to make a flat bottom that doesn't go through. Then tap threads into the holes using first a plug tap and then a bottoming tap. Screw in studs into the tapped holes that will project through holes in the front of the Buckeye enclosure. Two would be plenty.

Rick "since you apparently have a mill anyway" Denney
 
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carbidetooth

carbidetooth

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Base material is solid surface, aka Corian, although this is actually Samsung Staron. I machine it on my ShopSabre CNC router. Hence the epoxy retained threaded insert notion. I Would love to have metalworking shop in addition to woodworking, but my appetite for this stuff is way bigger than my shop space.
 

Sal1950

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To each their own concerning appearance, I imagine. I rather like the look of exposed hardware, but that's me.
A agree on both counts, but I would black out the hardware. That's just me.

Oh yea, and add a couple big VU meters between the screws, meter lighting would double as power indicators. :p
 

Sokel

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Since you like the exposed screws I think they would be 100 times better in black.
Try them painted with some nail polish (both screw heads and washers) or something if you don't have some black laying around.
Look will be way cleaner in one color.
Or you can get really nice screw covers:

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Edit:Oh,Sal ninja'd me.
 
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carbidetooth

carbidetooth

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Well, I admit to being the odd man out here. I like silver faceplates on equipment and would be hard-pressed to purchase a black car or appliance. I have black hardware I could test drive. Nail polish would be a chore to prep SS screws and nickel washers. I'm afraid my mind's eye balks at the thought of protruding hardware even though I likely have some I could try.
 

Sal1950

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Well, I admit to being the odd man out here. I like silver faceplates on equipment and would be hard-pressed to purchase a black car or appliance. I have black hardware I could test drive. Nail polish would be a chore to prep SS screws and nickel washers. I'm afraid my mind's eye balks at the thought of protruding hardware even though I likely have some I could try.
Everyone's got an opinion, and you know what they say about that. LOL
Honestly your faceplate looks great as-is and is a big cosmetic upgrade over the inexpensive casing Bullseye uses.

Or you could just buy a Dan Dagostino ?
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quattro98

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Those look nice. Where do I find these? Looked for screw cover on McMaster & didn't see it. These would be useful for project which will have exposed screws.

Since you like the exposed screws I think they would be 100 times better in black.
Try them painted with some nail polish (both screw heads and washers) or something if you don't have some black laying around.
Look will be way cleaner in one color.
Or you can get really nice screw covers:

View attachment 367993

Edit:Oh,Sal ninja'd me.
 

Sokel

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Those look nice. Where do I find these? Looked for screw cover on McMaster & didn't see it. These would be useful for project which will have exposed screws.
They're common,they must sell them in various places I think.
Here's a shop:

 

Sal1950

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