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I have a set of DC Aeon2-closed (supposedly, the Noire with a different earpad) and I can easily drive it from an LG V60 phone and a FiiO M11 (unbalanced 3.5mm). I don't listen any louder than ~87-92dB SPL, so take that into account.

This... Fletcher-Munson is your friend; 82-92dB SPL will keep your hearing going a long, long time as well as being the optimal SPL range for a 'flattish' response. 114dB SPL, not so much of either.

Yup! Fletcher-Munson curves... not only spectral masking effects also very level - dependent.

For those of us who want consistent (and excellent) performance from each input (coax / opt / USB) as well as balanced out and level adjustment, the D30 Pro ticks more boxes...

One 'middling' solution was to put a .05uF capacitor in parallel with a higher value resistor (330K-ish) instead of directly connecting the bridge to system ground. Some noise remained but nobody died... Given the state of electrical systems in bars and clubs (when I was a sound guy) I'm lucky...

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Oy, my brain... Use the cable you have, attached the way you came up with in your revised post (Shield plus one colour connected to sleeve at both ends and the other colour as your hot / tip connection at both ends.) As someone else mentioned: Unless the devices you are connecting are...

In addition to Chinese New Year, there's the small matter of a Global Pandemic that might have been a factor...

What is this 'full signal' you are referring to? Floating pin 3 and using Pin 2 plus ground is one half of a symmetrical* signal, so you lose 6dB. No biggie, as you'd want to lose a bit more to match consumer levels, anyway. It's just the single-ended version. Only in the worst possible...

The Emotiva cables are a better solution than any converter, no offense to Neurochrome. I'd imagine your local PA shop would love to build you such a cable, as they're likely underemployed at the moment.

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Change the two input loading resistors to 100k and your done. You don't need 1M ohm input z...that's gonna add to the noise and defeat what you say you're trying to accomplish. The real headscratcher is why the z-out of the Yamaha is so high. Have you measured it?

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How about a JDS Labs Atom used as a preamp?

Agreed. OP asked about an ADC...and already has (a great ) one in the RME ADI2 Pro...

If you can find a Niles Audio OTI-512 5v to 12v trigger converter, then you're good to go. If not, this simple DIY solution will work just as well. Any tech worthy of the title could whip this up pretty quickly, if you are not so inclined or interested: DIY 12V Remote Trigger for Onkyo Receiver...

You're right on with the shotgun approach. I was a pro-audio repair-guy for a lot of years and that approach is often much cheaper for the client! 'Glad that you're replacing the electrolytics, too. Please also change all of the power supply caps, as well, not just the signal path devices.

Also, check that Q314 (MPSA56) is actually an MPSA56 or close equivalent: On the PCB photo it looks a little different

I would look at replacing C309 (100uf@100VDC) and C311 (10uf@50VDC) first. If that doesn't change your quiescent voltages, then replace Q316 (IRF610). You could also be correct that it's Q308 ;-> The thinking here is that the capacitors (either or both) could be 'leaky' and not blocking DC...

You're doing well with the sleuthing, despite what you say about your lack of experience. With the preamp off, wiggle the volume and balance pots throughout their range, multiple times. Swap cables (Left to Right) just to be sure it is the preamp's circuitry. What you are describing could be...