Car Audio Amp Mini Nightmare.

[ThatM1key]

So after we put in the Kenwood headunit, the factory amp would always stay on (Via audio sensing) and drain the battery. The old JVC and OEM head-units never caused this problem. So I did a "Factory Amp Delete". I used the factory wiring for power with the new amp (Its temporary) and it technically a success. Only turns on when the radio does and I got plenty of control. The main issue, is when I do anything, there is a pop. Change a song, pop, change setting, pop, etc. I look on the internet and its either a RCA ground issue or an amp ground issue. I'm fairly certain its an RCA issue because the factory amp never did this and it used the same wiring for power.

Maybe I can ground the RCAs at the Amp side or maybe I can pay somebody else to fix this mess. I'm tired of playing around with fragile plastics and unbolting.

 

[Doodski]

So after we put in the Kenwood headunit, the factory amp would always stay on (Via audio sensing) and drain the battery. The old JVC and OEM head-units never caused this problem. So I did a "Factory Amp Delete". I used the factory wiring for power with the new amp (Its temporary) and it technically a success. Only turns on when the radio does and I got plenty of control. The main issue, is when I do anything, there is a pop. Change a song, pop, change setting, pop, etc. I look on the internet and its either a RCA ground issue or an amp ground issue. I'm fairly certain its an RCA issue because the factory amp never did this and it used the same wiring for power.

Maybe I can ground the RCAs at the Amp side or maybe I can pay somebody else to fix this mess. I'm tired of playing around with fragile plastics and unbolting.

That sounds like a mute circuitry issue. Is the issue on both channels?

 

[ThatM1key]

That sounds like a mute circuitry issue. Is the issue on both channels?

Yeah it is

 

[Doodski]

OK. The best test is to check the mute operation when the head unit is connected directly to the amp. So you should remove them from the vehicle and connect them on a table or workbench etc so the vehicle wiring is not in the circuit. I know it's a pain in the butt although that's the best route. This will isolate the fault to either the car wiring or the head unit. The amp only amplifies what comes into it and so it does not mute when you are executing commands on the head unit. The head unit does the muting. But first tell me the model of the amp and the head unit so I can get the pdf for them and check some stuff as per the wiring connections available.

 

[ThatM1key]

OK. The best test is to check the mute operation when the head unit is connected directly to the amp. So you should remove them from the vehicle and connect them on a table or workbench etc so the vehicle wiring is not in the circuit. I know it's a pain in the butt although that's the best route. This will isolate the fault to either the car wiring or the head unit. The amp only amplifies what comes into it and so it does not mute when you are executing commands on the head unit. The head unit does the muting. But first tell me the model of the amp and the head unit so I can get the pdf for them and check some stuff as per the wiring connections available.

I'm trying to word this right because I'm the state of "I don't wanna touch this for a while" when it comes to the way the audio is currently setup. Really tempted to pay somebody else to make this setup perfect. I looked through the PDFs to hell and back, couldn't find much and I'm certain you won't find much either.

 

[Doodski]

Okidoki.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

So much info is missing. Can we start by getting the model and make of the amp?

Is the current issue draining of the battery or is it popping noise when changing track?

 

[ThatM1key]

Sorry for the late reply.

So much info is missing. Can we start by getting the model and make of the amp?

Amp: Sony xm-gs4
Radio: Kenwood dpx395mbt

Is the current issue draining of the battery or is it popping noise when changing track?

Popping noise when changing track and when doing menu stuff. (RCA output on headunit).

I will say this, the audio sounds clean and doesn't sound like it has any problems (other then the popping). I know when I used the high-level on the headunit, it would make a "beep" sound through the menus.

 

[Doodski]

 

[Doodski]

It's just a regular amp head unit connection configuration as you suggested yesterday. I'm still of the opinion the head unit has a mute issue. Is the head unit new?

 

[ThatM1key]

It's just a regular amp head unit connection configuration as you suggested yesterday. I'm still of the opinion the head unit has a mute issue. Is the head unit new?

Brand new with a standard config. I'm fairly certain that mute wire is for a phone kit.

 

[Doodski]

Brand new with a standard config. I'm fairly certain that mute wire is for a phone kit.

Could be. I'm not familiar with the phone kits and their workings but when the head unit mutes/send voltage to the internal transistors or FETs for the muting of the head unit it will simultaneously output voltage on that external mute wire for other devices that have a external mute control input. What parts of the car's internal wiring did you use for the installation? I am highly suspect of two things. The first is the head unit mute circuitry not operating properly and the second is the use of the car's wiring may be inducing a issue. That's why I suggested testing the car head unit out of the car. In this situation divide and conquer is the method of troubleshooting because there are many things going on there and simplicity must be used and that means bench testing the gear. When I was a car audio installer long ago I had so many bad car audio head units (Thank JVC for bringing that tally up to high numbers.) that I tested all parts on the workbench before putting them into the vehicle.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

Sorry for the late reply.


Amp: Sony xm-gs4
Radio: Kenwood dpx395mbt


Popping noise when changing track and when doing menu stuff. (RCA output on headunit).

I will say this, the audio sounds clean and doesn't sound like it has any problems (other then the popping). I know when I used the high-level on the headunit, it would make a "beep" sound through the menus.

Okay. Quick shot from the hip: Go in the menu and turn off the menu button beep sound.

These beeps can be cruel when amplified full range with a sub. Because of delays (I guess) I've experienced just the transient of the signal getting through and hitting the sub amp. but not the speakers so the "beep" is missing but you get a "thump" from the woofer instead.

 

[ThatM1key]

Okay. Quick shot from the hip: Go in the menu and turn off the menu button beep sound.

These beeps can be cruel when amplified full range with a sub. Because of delays (I guess) I've experienced just the transient of the signal getting through and hitting the sub amp. but not the speakers so the "beep" is missing but you get a "thump" from the woofer instead.

View attachment 284812

I turned off the beep and weirdly, the problem remains. Still a pop from all speakers.

Next I wonder if grounding the amp to a different part of the car would solve it rather then grounding the RCAs.

 

[Doodski]

I turned off the beep and weirdly, the problem remains. Still a pop from all speakers.

Next I wonder if grounding the amp to a different part of the car would solve it rather then grounding the RCAs.

Do not draw ground from RCAs. The major issue with that is if the current is enough it will fry a trace on the PCB and then you have a open RCA ground and the unit needs repair.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

I turned off the beep and weirdly, the problem remains. Still a pop from all speakers.

Next I wonder if grounding the amp to a different part of the car would solve it rather then grounding the RCAs.

No. If you have bolted the GND wire to the chassis somewhere it's fine. Be aware of getting good contact to the metal beneath the galvanic layer. Also check if the GND position isn't in some composite material. Some vehicles have composite layers in the trunk instead of plain steel.

And do not connect RCA's to ground!?

This noise from pushing buttons shouldn't exist when you have disabled button press sound in the menu. That's a puzzle.

You wrote you have connected the power amp from existing harness. -How large is the +wire from this harness?

 

[ThatM1key]

And do not connect RCA's to ground!?

I thought it was thing, considering the pictures online.

You wrote you have connected the power amp from existing harness. -How large is the +wire from this harness?

2 Sets of positive and negative wires running to the back trunk. There about 16 gauge.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

I thought it was thing, considering the pictures online.

2 Sets of positive and negative wires running to the back trunk. There about 16 gauge.

LOL Hope you are kidding with this picture.

Well, I would definetely make a GND locally from the amp GND / negative terminal to the trunk chassis metal somewhere.

Also the amp has two 30 A fuses. I would run a positive large gauge cable from the battery + (fused at battery terminal) to the amp. I doubt the harness where you connect the amp to is dimensioned for supplying a separate power amp.

 

[ThatM1key]

LOL Hope you are kidding with this picture.

Not at all. I'm still new to this whole car audio thing.

Well, I would definetely make a GND locally from the amp GND / negative terminal to the trunk chassis metal somewhere.

Also the amp has two 30 A fuses. I would run a positive large gauge cable from the battery + (fused at battery terminal) to the amp.

I was thinking of trying a 8 gauge ground to a bolt in the trunk area. Then in the future adding 1 gauge positive (fused) to the back with a distribution block for future amp(s).

I doubt the harness where you connect the amp to is dimensioned for supplying a separate power amp.

I wasn't adding a 2nd amp alongside the factory amp. My goal was to replace the factory amp.

 

[Deleted member 48726]

1) Not at all. I'm still new to this whole car audio thing.


2) I was thinking of trying a 8 gauge ground to a bolt in the trunk area. Then in the future adding 1 gauge positive (fused) to the back with a distribution block for future amp(s).



I wasn't adding a 2nd amp alongside the factory amp. My goal was to replace the factory amp.

1) Really? Well don't do anything like showed on the picture!

2) 8 gauge GND to a bolt is fine. Just be aware of the cable making good contact to actual steel.
You will need to do some hard work afterwards. Because you need to be sure the amplifier is installed properly you will need to pull an 8 gauge positive cable from the bat+ to the trunk as well. Make sure to fuse it right at the battery.

This replacement is much more powerful than the factory amp. and I wonder if that sound you're describing is the amp shutting off and powering on again because of the voltage is dropping below a certain threshold.