Danny at GR getting bad Talk Back from many of his viewers

[Killingbeans]

Not sure I have perfected high mass soldering as yet but suspect the answer is larger soldering tips.

It is. Big honking tip and high temp (preferably a high wattage iron instead). And connect the part you're soldering to a good heat spreader, so you don't melt anything unintended

 

[DanielT]

if they sound okay I'd leave them be, you can create more problems than you solve.

There's more than one type of ferrofluid so if you are set on refreshing it I'd try and find out what exactly they used first of all.

I thought more along the lines of filling up, changing to new oil for the car engine to increase its life span. Perhaps the same principle can be applied to this type of tweeter? Or not ?

But okay, if you don't know what type of ferrofluid is needed, it will be difficult to do that.

 

[MAB]

Is it possible to generalize and say that old speakers with tweeters that have ferrofluid in them should be filled with such fluid?

How much liquid is needed to fix two tweeters? I mostly wonder if it's worth it.

I did a quick google. AlegaFerrofluid - 10 ml, 200 SEK /$19. Is it a good price?

Edit:
I know, worth to one person but not to another, so I guess it's subjective.

My experience is limited, but a tweeter that uses ferrofluid can be operated without the fluid in the gap, if so the parameters do change but not in a way I would call dramatic. I measured a tweeter that I cleaned up years ago, I didn't save the data and I emphasize I am not an expert in the field of ferrofluid, but I concluded that the biggest worry was power heat dissipation and power handling (I can only speculate), not frequency response or sound (which I actually measured and was a nit). Since the tweeter was used with a fairly low crossover point, I figured better to use the fluid.

I have an old Seas tweeter on my bench with the fluid completely dried to a varnish consistency. If I can get it out of the gap, I will test and post what I see in terms of parameter changes with and without fluid, since I have brand new diaphragms, along the way of doing yet another test of 'do speakers really change that much during break-in?'. The problem is getting the remnants of the fluid out of the gap now that it is the consistency of iron-impregnated resin.

 

[DanielT]

My experience is limited, but a tweeter that uses ferrofluid can be operated without the fluid in the gap, if so the parameters do change but not in a way I would call dramatic. I measured a tweeter that I cleaned up years ago, I didn't save the data and I emphasize I am not an expert in the field of ferrofluid, but I concluded that the biggest worry was power heat dissipation and power handling (I can only speculate), not frequency response or sound (which I actually measured and was a nit). Since the tweeter was used with a fairly low crossover point, I figured better to use the fluid.

I have an old Seas tweeter on my bench with the fluid completely dried to a varnish consistency. If I can get it out of the gap, I will test and post what I see in terms of parameter changes with and without fluid, since I have brand new diaphragms, along the way of doing yet another test of 'do speakers really change that much during break-in?'. The problem is getting the remnants of the fluid out of the gap now that it is the consistency of iron-impregnated resin.

But isn't this really rather silly overkill HiFi, to use ferrofluid for cooling, for normal home HiFi use? What kind of cooling is actually needed? Or what the point of it actually is? It's about home HiFi speakers with ditto tweeters not PA speakers that are pushed to extremes, so what about that need for cooling?
Or have I missed something now?

Does the liquid dry out completely maybe because of that design, but...I don't know, I'm just speculating now.But feel free to try: I will test and post what I see in terms of parameter changes with and without fluid,... It will be really fun to see the results. Good luck with the test.

 

[MAB]

But isn't this really rather silly overkill HiFi, to use ferrofluid for cooling, for normal home HiFi use? What kind of cooling is actually needed? Or what the point of it actually is? It's about home HiFi speakers with ditto tweeters not PA speakers that are pushed to extremes, so what about that need for cooling?
Or have I missed something now?

Does the liquid dry out completely maybe because of that design, but...I don't know, I'm just speculating now.But feel free to try: I will test and post what I see in terms of parameter changes with and without fluid,... It will be really fun to see the results. Good luck with the test.

It does provide cooling. Home use does get the voice coils and associated bits quite hot. I think it is a tool.

The Seas tweeters with the dried ferrofluid are over 20 years old, and used quite heavily. The tweeter plays low, and was used with a low crossover. Perhaps without the ferrofluid I would have melted the VC at high volume. If so, it did it's job! It sure is a mess now though...

 

[fpitas]

sounds like an interesting evolutionary step in BDSM practices...

Oh, the things they'll induce you to do!