The simulation for the specific driver is available on speakerboxlite if you want to check.DC resistance (Re) and maximum impedance (Zmax).
The simulation for the specific driver is available on speakerboxlite if you want to check.DC resistance (Re) and maximum impedance (Zmax).
Maybe someone measured it with a Dayton DATS then or something.The simulation for the specific driver is available on speakerboxlite if you want to check.
The simulation for the specific driver is available on speakerboxlite if you want to check.
something is wrong there is no way two 10 inch drivers in isobaric can come close to 120 max SPL yet along exceed it.This is probably a more realistic simulation using Hornresp (with a few parameters guestimated) for a single driver:
View attachment 165551
Which at first sight looks okay. But when we factor in excursion, where I give the thing a very genourous 8mm of Xmax, maxSPL looks like this:
View attachment 165553
Which is optimistic at best, because also the 1000 Watt power handling is only peak, so I used 500W here, and even that is probably wishful thinking. In any case, below 60Hz, you are excursion limited. So at 20Hz, max SPL is about 102 dB. Which might still be respectable. If you have a second one, this will add some dB's ass will room gain. So all in all might even be usable.
It's a single driver in eighth space (so corner placement), in half-space it barely touches 110dB, which is possible with the generous 8 mm of Xmax that I specified.something is wrong there is no way two 10 inch drivers in isobaric can come close to 120 max SPL yet along exceed it.
That would always be the better option, but if you already have all the stuff, and it costs you nothing... why not try!I would honestly save up and buy a 18" woofer kit from parts express for 500$. (not just any 18", a Dayton Ultima)
Because you pile up your subs in the middle of the room?(Simulation is @ 2pi we're not savages )
it's at least more sensible / standard than horn loading sub-bass frequenciesBecause you pile up your subs in the middle of the room?
Not really. You should simulate close to the environment you use the thing in. So if you put it in a corner, you should do a corner simulation. Yes, you boost the low end, but that is at least more realistic (in reality, you'll probably get even more boost than that down low).it's at least more sensible / standard than horn loading sub-bass frequencies
maybe if all the walls are made out of reinforced concrete, otherwise the bass will go right through the walls.Not really. You should simulate close to the environment you use the thing in. So if you put it in a corner, you should do a corner simulation. Yes, you boost the low end, but that is at least more realistic (in reality, you'll probably get even more boost than that down low).
View attachment 165548
They also have not more than the manufacturer shows...
And it gives a neet little error box when trying to make a sim:
View attachment 165549
For some reason, if you use the wizard, it magically does make a graph... Which I would not trust, it gives a -6 dB at 10 Hz. No way that is true
Yes they do this for every driver but since you are not building a new box from the beginning what would change? Max SPL probably impossible but you never know.The boxlite parameters seem to be taken straight off the data sheet...
Yes, the wizard works indeed... I hate wizardsIt works both for closed and ventedLink to the calculations
speakerboxlite.com
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This project is risky at best and is not worth even the time you would spend on it.
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I understand what you are saying, but if they have fun with it then it could be worth their time. And in reality, is my posting this worth the time? I'm going to stop doing half what I do if I look at if it is really worth the time or not