No.So if I read an amp manufacturer says they increased DF from 240 to 320 between version 1 and version 2 of an amp, does that really matter?
Is this really true, see also: LinkDamping factor is important, up to about 20 or so. Beyond that, it makes little difference unless the speakers are nearly impossible to drive and your amp needs a direct connection to a 230Vac line. Ya might need a bit more grunt then. For us chickens, (bedawk!) nope.
So linking to your own nonsense, with quotes from marketing. Is that actually an improvement over your usual direct linking to advertising material?Is this really true, see also: Link
Again, a short and easy calculation will show how fast you get to diminishing returns.I was pulled apart once with a 'Douglas Self' article when I tried to defend high damping factor amps, but then Stereophile showed what higher amp output impedances do to a typical two-way passive loudspeaker load, let alone a three or more way one. I still think there seems to be a subjective difference in the bass especially (it still may just be response differences as most speakers have impedance peaks at the box and driver resonances). Lower damping factor amps (or a higher one used in bridged form) do have a very slightly 'warmer' or 'looser' feel I still think and into some speakers I feel it shows. No objective evidence though but just returning to my mid 1970's roots and comparing many amps back then without ego or personal vibes being fully developed.. (the old prosumer power amps I've returned to from that time boasted damping factor figures of up to several hundred in bass and mids).
Interesting thread. Hope it carries on with different findings.
The short paragraph on '7.4.3 Damping factor' is sufficient to understand how complex the theory can be and I think this one is closer to reality:Have you bothered to spend a few minutes doing a basic voltage divider calculation as has been suggested repeatedly, or is algebra just too difficult for you?
What are we expected to learn from a single paragraph with one simple formula that doesn't even touch the basics of what's already clarified before in this topic? Where does it say you need a DF that goes into the hundreds?The short paragraph on '7.4.3 Damping factor' is sufficient to understand how complex the theory can be and I think this one is closer to reality:
Link
Where does the article you refer to mentions that? Do you have measurements that demonstrate this behavior?In reality, an idealized measured DF could turn out to be 5 to 10 times smaller depending on level, temperature....
Think the theory that high damping factor amps are better is due to Lenz’s Law. The amplifier’s low output impedance is seen as a load by the speakers‘ induced EMF. The lower the impedance the less effect the induced EMF will have on unwanted cone movement. Lenz’s Law -e = L x di/dtI was pulled apart once with a 'Douglas Self' article when I tried to defend high damping factor amps, but then Stereophile showed what higher amp output impedances do to a typical two-way passive loudspeaker load, let alone a three or more way one. I still think there seems to be a subjective difference in the bass especially (it still may just be response differences as most speakers have impedance peaks at the box and driver resonances). Lower damping factor amps (or a higher one used in bridged form) do have a very slightly 'warmer' or 'looser' feel I still think and into some speakers I feel it shows. No objective evidence though but just returning to my mid 1970's roots and comparing many amps back then without ego or personal vibes being fully developed.. (the old prosumer power amps I've returned to from that time boasted damping factor figures of up to several hundred in bass and mids).
Interesting thread. Hope it carries on with different findings.
Porting allows the drivers to move more freely than infinite baffle designs. While the voice coil inductances and the rate of change of current remains the same, damping of unwanted speaker excursions are likely to need more severe damping.I do still think, rightly or wrongly, that severely undamped 8" driver port assisted speakers with 'BBC heritage' (for a warm, 'natural' sound...) or some transmission line models, do or did seem more sensitive to this aspect, but no idea how much back emf such drivers exhibit. O f course, more modern speaker designs may not suffer this issue at all to any great degree...
Carver had a series of amps that would allow you to emulate a tube amp. A big part of that was switching in a series output resistor. I seem to recall one or two other amps did something similar but the Carver is the only one that comes to mind. And of course tube amps with multiple transformer taps, but their output impedance was already high enough to be readily identifiable from SS amps with many speakers in DBTs.A general question:
Has anyone ever used an amplifier with a switchable DF and what were the different listening impressions?
As long as you maintain the exact same frequency response at the speaker terminals by proper pre-EQ, no difference when going from DF 1000 to DF 10, and almost no change when going to DF 1. If not EQ'd, you'll hear the frequency response change of course (unless the speaker is fully impedance compensated).A general question:
Has anyone ever used an amplifier with a switchable DF and what were the different listening impressions?