Killingbeans
Major Contributor
As far as I can see, it's about acoustical measurements picturing the electromechanical behavior of speaker drivers. Like I said before: It has zero relevance to the electrical behavior of capacitors(?).
You might want to mention that these statements serve to promote a commercial measurement system.The 3D Step Response Measurement has the following advantages to make the sound quality of the reproduction more visible (see also my post #114):
- Stimulis, which come closer to music, etc
- 3D graph, which contains more comparable interrelated components
Arta has no 3D representation of decay processes, but the decay process can be displayed there either time based (CSD) or oscillation periods based (burst decay).I don't know whether e.g. ARTA supports such a measurement.
As electrolytic capacitors age, their capacitance values change (decrease) and their dielectric strength decreases....how caps in these vintage speakers must be replaced to avoid tweeter and mid driver damage. I cannot find exact quotes at the moment but the logic behind this argument suggested that out of spec cap would allow signal that was beyond what the driver could safely handle and effectively damage it.
That’s well within tolerances.Very much appreciate your reply !
One more question if I may, and forgive my complete ignorance.
Can I replace an original 80mFd cap in the crossover with a 82mFd or will that negatively affect the performance ? I'm having difficulty finding such a capacitor.
If you like the sound and no capacitor is obviously damaged, everything is fine, why change this?I like the way they sound, so am not looking to make them sound 'better'.
Guess the 3.3µF capacitor is in series to the tweeter, if this is the case it should be replaced by a (cheap) film capacitor (usually +-3-5% tolerance).The factory caps are Panasonic Y Series (radial, bi-polar, electrolytic): 3.3, 10, 22, 33 and 68 uF.
Use decent brand (not audiophile!) bipolar electrolytics, and if their ESR is lower than the originals, put in a small series resistance to make up for that.Like InvertedFlight, I'm looking for some advice related to upgrading capacitors and whether they're worth it. I have a pair of Technics SB-6000 two-way speakers, circa 1977, and would like to do a recap. I like the way they sound, so am not looking to make them sound 'better'. The factory caps are Panasonic Y Series (radial, bi-polar, electrolytic): 3.3, 10, 22, 33 and 68 uF. It appears these caps are (not surprisingly) no longer available. Questions:
1. The Panasonic documentation for Y Series states they are "designed specially for crossover networks", as does the spec sheet for possible replacements - Nichicon UDB Series. Is this just marketing hooey, or are there specific design/construction characteristics of a crossover capacitor (vs an amp) I need to be aware of when choosing a replacement? Or, will any 'audio' capacitor do?
2. Should I should stick with electrolytic to not risk changing the sound beyond what aging might've already done?
3. Do you have any recommendations for replacement caps given the market value of the speakers is likely not more than $300 to $400?
If you like the sound and no capacitor is obviously damaged, everything is fine, why change this?
I'm so happy you asked. I've been led to believe (in a few forums) that any 40+ year old electrolytic capacitor is too old/degraded to use, and might even be dangerous, so should be replaced. Although I was thinking it would be fun to test my skills in a recap, I'm not necessarily looking for extra work.
Guess the 3.3µF capacitor is in series to the tweeter, if this is the case it should be replaced by a (cheap) film capacitor (usually +-3-5% tolerance).
I would replace all other bipolar electrolytic capacitors (usually +-10% tolerance) with such again (as long as they are not in series with the tweeter).
Dumb question: How would I know if they are "in series with the tweeter"?
If the capacitors are replaced without measuring the capacitors (old and new) with an LCR meter, the sound may change slightly and the pair deviation of the speakers may increase.
Use decent brand (not audiophile!) bipolar electrolytics, and if their ESR is lower than the originals, put in a small series resistance to make up for that.
A higher dielectric strength (e.g. 100V, 250V) is no problem.I'm finding it a challenge to locate radial caps of any brand with the capacitance and voltage (50) required. The only ones I've found so far are Nichicon.