Yeah, there's nothing really wrong with doing that, the only problem with digitally reducing the volume is that you're decrease SNR and losing a bit of dynamic range. To compensate for the lack of dynamic range, or in other words to make loss of dynamic range virtually close to zero, then you can just set your soundcard to be in 32bit mode in Windows or whatever OS you're using, that way you're not losing any real dynamic range. The SNR reduction still exists though if you're digitally reducing volume, which you can prevent by hooking up your DAC to a headphone amp with an analog volume pot - this way you can run your DAC at it's optimal high output to preserve SNR & indeed SINAD and then you reduce the volume using the analog volume pot. The problem with analog volume pots is that they can potentially have some channel imbalance. If you have a very good measuring DAC with a high SINAD and SNR then using digital volume control whilst in 32bit mode is fine because your DAC already has the SINAD & SNR extra headroom that your experience won't be negatively affected by worsening those 2 variables through digital volume control, and of course the 32bit mode means you preserve enough dynamic range as previously said.
TLDR, if you've got a pretty good measuring DAC then -12dB digital negative preamp is not gonna cause any problems.
EDIT: just researched your Audioengine D1 - well it's got the analog headphone amp already included. As long as you're not running the volume pot close to zero volume then channel balance should be fine (normally), because channel balance on volume pots is often bad when it's close to it's lowest volume level position. So assuming that 6 o'clock was your volume pot zero position, then you might want to ensure you're running at least at 9 o'clock with the volume knob. And in fact I'd rather do that and keep the negative preamp as close to zero as possible - or infact keeping the Negative Preamp at -2dB will ensure that you account for intersample overs, which is another topic......so I'd run a negative digital preamp of -2dB (maybe up to a max of -5dB) and then twiddle the volume knob on your DAC.
There's no real reason to use a larger negative preamp than you need to cover the EQ boosts and if you like an extra -2dB for covering intersample overs. So if your total EQ curve was showing a max boost on the curve of +6dB, then you should run a Negative Preamp of -6dB to -8dB. It doesn't really matter how many different EQ filters you use, what matters is the Total EQ Curve once all those filters have been summed together.Is it adviced to use less pregain if possible? For example I use 2 low shelf filters on my HD800 to boost the bass by a total of -6.5db. Will there be an improvement in dynamics if I just use one peak filter at 20hz that will be similar (slightly less accurate) and bring the pregain to -5.5db or -6db instead (with slightly less sub bass)? I listen with my RME at around -40db, so I have lots of headroom with that -6.5db pregain.
There's no real reason to use a larger negative preamp than you need to cover the EQ boosts and if you like an extra -2dB for covering intersample overs. So if your total EQ curve was showing a max boost on the curve of +6dB, then you should run a Negative Preamp of -6dB to -8dB. It doesn't really matter how many different EQ filters you use, what matters is the Total EQ Curve once all those filters have been summed together.
Those small changes in negative preamp have no effect in any kind of extra perception of dynamic range if that's what you're asking - if you set your sound in Windows to 32bit then you won't really lose any "theoretical" dynamic range anyway almost regardless of what kind of sized negative preamp you run. As for "dynamics" that you mentioned earlier, that could mean almost anything - but if you change the Total EQ Curve to something else then it is gonna be changing the sound in one way or another as long as it's a significant enough change.Oh, I absolutely get that. What I'm trying to say is that I'm using two shelf filters of +4db and +2.5db. I could instead use a broad peak filter of +6db (or even a slightly broader +5,5db filter) at 20hz with nearly the same result, but in this case I can use a smaller negative pregain and still eliminate any chance of clipping. But, will it matter in reality? Is there any benefit of allowing myself to use a slightly lesser negative pregain by changing the EQ a bit?
Thanks for the response. Do you know of any fixes for windows 11? Do I need an EQ?For sure has nothing to do with the headphone. Is probably an OS problem.
I used to get static only during the act of plugging in my HD560s to my JDS Labs Atom Amp (whilst it was turned off of course), so it was fine during playback & use & when idle, it was just on that initial plugging in - it was something I didn't notice in any of my other headphones. Since then I bought a longer interconnect cable that runs from my DAC to the headphone amp (for desk placement reasons) and my DAC no longer sits on top of the headphone amp, I've also routed the longer interconnect cable away from any power bricks - since then I don't notice the static during plugging in the HD560s anymore.....so I don't know if that is coincidence or what, but it's not something that happened with my other headphones, and it's fixed now with that different DAC placement & cable routing. @solderdude being an electrical guru will know what might be going on here or if it was just coincidence, but I thought I'd let you know my experience for the outside chance it might be related in some way to what you're experiencing. Note though that the static literally only happened when plugging the headphone in, at least I didn't notice it at any other time.Hi Everyone,
I am new here. I just bought a pair of hd560s and they sounds awesome, but I keep getting a static pop every 20-40 seconds. I have them running through a behringer U-phoria UM2. I also have a mic setup through this same amp (connected to my pc). Not sure if the amp is my problem or the headphones are faulty. Does anyone else have a similar issue with these?
thank you,
Jay
Does it require a special driver? If so, not sure if the existing driver is compatible with Win 11. On Thomans I read that it is compatible up to Win 10, it doesn't say anything about 11. Also try unplugging the microphone and see if that makes a difference. Windows can be tricky when it comes to handle outgoing and incoming digital signals simultanously. I also think this is software related. Can you check against another computer if it's the same problem? If you run it through the Windows built-in mixer, it can also be about the settings for this.Thanks for the response. Do you know of any fixes for windows 11? Do I need an EQ?
Can be hair touching against vibrating membranes. Or wires. I sometimes had similar rattling noises, but got rid of them after shaking the headphones hard.@all: I have slightly rattling noises when playing loud Sine waves between ~50 - 150 Hz. It's on both sides. I took away the pad, but the three screws holding the driver unit are tight. I tighten it a bit more. Can you check if you have similar issues:
Online Tone Generator - generate pure tones of any frequency
www.szynalski.com
Can be that you need to exceed some volume threshold. Thinking about exchangeing them, but it could be that it's a common problem due to the plastic design.
Can be hair touching against vibrating membranes. Or wires. I sometimes had similar rattling noises, but got rid of them after shaking the headphones hard.
Not normal. My 560S can play clean bass to head pounding levels. Did you try shaking your headphones?No hair. It's also very very subtle and maybe normal?
It is only recognizable with clean Sine tones. If the headphone for sure. When I press them against the head it's gone. Seems to be.an issue (see reddit)Not normal. My 560S can play clean bass to head pounding levels. Did you try shaking your headphones?
Another issue could be digital clipping when applying software EQ boost to bass. If you lower volume in OS, but compensate in amp, does the noise go away?
I just tested this on most of my different headphones just now using the following tone generator:It is only recognizable with clean Sine tones. If the headphone for sure. When I press them against the head it's gone. Seems to be.an issue (see reddit)
It is only recognizable with clean Sine tones. If the headphone for sure. When I press them against the head it's gone. Seems to be.an issue (see reddit)
No rattling when I tried it. The only problem I have with mine is with the connection between the right earcup and the the headband. Sometimes when it shifts, it makes a dull click (if that makes any sense) that can be heard and felt.@all: I have slightly rattling noises when playing loud Sine waves between ~50 - 150 Hz. It's on both sides. I took away the pad, but the three screws holding the driver unit are tight. I tighten it a bit more. Can you check if you have similar issues:
Online Tone Generator - generate pure tones of any frequency
www.szynalski.com
Can be that you need to exceed some volume threshold. Thinking about exchangeing them, but it could be that it's a common problem due to the plastic design.