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Show us your bicycles!

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JaccoW

JaccoW

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I worked stainless for some years wiring up oil and water drilling rigs and snow plow trucks with electronic over hydraulic control. It is tricky to work with and can't be managed by just anybody. One thing about chrome moly steel is it can be brazed and modified if needed. Not that we need that but in the past I had a old timer bike mechanic braze on some MOD stuff for me and it worked out very well. I like that. So titanium it is for future rides with all the features possible if possible.
From what I remember about it in university both stainless steel and titanium require similar complex welding conditions.
EDIT: All of the bikes I ride are brazed chromoly so I know what you mean though. Though I certainly wouldn't mind trying some newer materials. Something like a bicycle with a Lauf Grit fork sounds like it could be a fun ride.

But there are some great looking fillet brazed stainless steel frames around:
soma-triple-cross-stainless-cxmagazine-cyclocross-5-e_11.jpg

Soma Triple Cross Disc 2013
 
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Chrispy

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From what I remember about it in university both stainless steel and titanium require similar complex welding conditions.
EDIT: All of the bikes I ride are brazed chromoly so I know what you mean though. Though I certainly wouldn't mind trying some newer materials. Something like a bicycle with a Lauf Grit fork sounds like it could be a fun ride.

But there are some great looking fillet brazed stainless steel frames around:
soma-triple-cross-stainless-cxmagazine-cyclocross-5-e_11.jpg

Soma Triple Cross Disc 2013
Soma offers some really good options....some friends of mine started that one up! That stainless is pretty! I have a polished ti road frame that's a pain to keep in a high state of shine, is stainless any easier in that respect I wonder.....
 
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JaccoW

JaccoW

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Soma offers some really good options....some friends of mine started that one up! That stainless is pretty! I have a polished ti road frame that's a pain to keep in a high state of shine, is stainless any easier in that respect I wonder.....
Yes it will be. I have 40 year old polished stainless steel fenders on one of my bicycles and they still look like new. (with some micro scratches)

Polished titanium will always dull over time because that metal is extremely reactive and will oxidize with the air unless you keep it sealed. That is actually what keeps the titanium protected. Titanium oxide is an extremely resistant material but it does turn the metal a dull grey.
 

pseudoid

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I have been obsessed with titanium, since my first job after college.
Should I seek therapy?
The cockpit and parts of the flight-control system are protected by 1,200 lb (540 kg) of titanium aircraft armor, referred to as a "bathtub".
The armor has been tested to withstand strikes from 23 mm cannon fire and some strikes from 57 mm rounds.
It is made up of titanium plates with thicknesses from 0.5 to 1.5 inches (13 to 38 mm) determined by a study of likely trajectories and deflection angles.
The armor makes up almost 6 percent of the aircraft's empty weight.
Any interior surface of the tub directly exposed to the pilot is covered by a multi-layer nylon spall shield to protect against shell fragmentation.
Funny part was that the titanium was originally sourced directly from Russia.:oops:
Warthog.
 

rdenney

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That frame looks like it has lotsa comfy flex. :D I like chrome moly flexy frames. After I bought a all aluminum Kona frame with big diameter tubes I sold it because it sucked. Within 5 minutes I had serious pain from the seat hammering me. Not for me. :D
Columbus SP and PS tubing mix, and stays and forks cut from the thick end, and cast Hayden fork crown, so not really all that flexy. Not as stiff as the shaped Columbus MXL tubing Eddy Merckx used, of course. But quite stiff compared to S and SL tubing usually found on Italian race bikes. It was worth the extra pound or two.

But a diamond frame has so much truss stiffness vertically that the tubing stiffness hardly has any influence over butt hammering. Mostly, it’s geometry—the 70’s frame is a bit over square and has a generous wheelbase. Most later race bikes have tight geometry. The more the rear wheel is under the butt, the greater the hammering.

Someone mentioned toe overlap. I wear size 48 (at least) in cycling shoes. I’ve never owned a bike that didn’t have serious toe overlap. Finding the Christophe XXL toe clips used on the Moore was no mean feat back in 1977. Italian feet rarely approach that size. On the track bike, it requires attention.

Rick “wrote an article about this for Triathlete magazine in ‘99 or so” Denney
 

Chrispy

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Yes it will be. I have 40 year old polished stainless steel fenders on one of my bicycles and they still look like new. (with some micro scratches)

Polished titanium will always dull over time because that metal is extremely reactive and will oxidize with the air unless you keep it sealed. That is actually what keeps the titanium protected. Titanium oxide is an extremely resistant material but it does turn the metal a dull grey.
Sounds like aluminum oxide to an extent. You know what works great on a ti frame for cleaning up? Pledge Lemon.....the Moots guys recommended it particularly on the YBB "suspension" but for cleaning in general.
 

rdenney

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If you think the old chromeMoly frames were comfy, you should try titanium. Now that is a proper comfortable frame material. You'll forget all about your steel frames. Plus Ti doesn't rust.
My time-trial/triathlon bike is titanium. Nice, but not on the same comfort planet as my steel Eddy Merckx.

Rick “hint: it’s not about the material” Denney
 

Chrispy

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My time-trial/triathlon bike is titanium. Nice, but not on the same comfort planet as my steel Eddy Merckx.

Rick “hint: it’s not about the material” Denney
I think that goes either way with a lot of different frames out there, depends who made/designed it and what particular tubing and construction and all that good stuff.
 

Doodski

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But a diamond frame has so much truss stiffness vertically that the tubing stiffness hardly has any influence over butt hammering. Mostly, it’s geometry—the 70’s frame is a bit over square and has a generous wheelbase. Most later race bikes have tight geometry. The more the rear wheel is under the butt, the greater the hammering.
That explains maybe why I enjoyed the 23" chrome moly frame. It had enormously long chain stays I think they are called. One could squeeze them and see them flex. The chain stays where so long wheelies where near impossible.
 

rdenney

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That explains maybe why I enjoyed the 23" chrome moly frame. It had enormously long chain stays I think they are called. One could squeeze them and see them flex. The chain stays where so long wheelies where near impossible.
Yup.

Rick “rear fender clearance is a good sign” Denney
 

Chrispy

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That explains maybe why I enjoyed the 23" chrome moly frame. It had enormously long chain stays I think they are called. One could squeeze them and see them flex. The chain stays where so long wheelies where near impossible.
My first mountain bike was a long wheelbase (relatively) chromoly frame....but rigid, this was long before suspension was an option.....that bike was super comfy on trail. My first suspension bike wasn't as comfy....but suspension on mountain bikes these days is pretty dang good
 

rdenney

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My first mountain bike was a long wheelbase (relatively) chromoly frame....but rigid, this was long before suspension was an option.....that bike was super comfy on trail. My first suspension bike wasn't as comfy....but suspension on mountain bikes these days is pretty dang good
My MTB is a hard-tail, but the discomfort was never the saddle. It was always some unhardened part of my anatomy coming into abrupt contact with some hardened part of the terrain.

Rick “a roadie” Denney
 

Doodski

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My first mountain bike was a long wheelbase (relatively) chromoly frame....but rigid, this was long before suspension was an option.....that bike was super comfy on trail. My first suspension bike wasn't as comfy....but suspension on mountain bikes these days is pretty dang good
I've never owned a suspended bicycle. Owned several dirt motorcycles so I appreciate good suspension. The thing about suspended street and dirt rides is they pogo and bounce going from what I test rode. Yes, jumping off a loading bay was fun and cushy but it was mooshy de jour. From the parking lot to the sidewalk it was a pogo stick never mind climbing. I think I would be better off with something with maybe 1-2 inches of suspension but well damped.
 

Doodski

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My MTB is a hard-tail, but the discomfort was never the saddle. It was always some unhardened part of my anatomy coming into abrupt contact with some hardened part of the terrain.

Rick “a roadie” Denney
My discomfort was having the front wheel crank around and launch me into the bars as I tumbled down the road on a touring 10 speed. as the seat beat my lower back into submission. ~6 weeks in the hospital with very bruised kidneys pissing blood was the result. So I am cautious now with road bikes and skinny tires. :D Worst wipeout I've ever had and I've had some pretty radical motorcycle wipeouts.
 

Chrispy

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I've never owned a suspended bicycle. Owned several dirt motorcycles so I appreciate good suspension. The thing about suspended street and dirt rides is they pogo and bounce going from what I test rode. Yes, jumping off a loading bay was fun and cushy but it was mooshy de jour. From the parking lot to the sidewalk it was a pogo stick never mind climbing. I think I would be better off with something with maybe 1-2 inches of suspension but well damped.
That's more about the quality of suspension/and or bike design than the amount of travel. My first "suspended" mountain bike was a Moots YBB, with a very mechanical and limited travel rear "suspension" and at the time what would today be a lousy suspension fork (but at the time was pretty "good"). You can get a very good pedaling bike even with up to 6" of travel....but depends on the bike/design. Cheap bikes won't generally be in this area. Often with cheap bikes you may as well stay rigid than bother with cheap suspension components/design.
 

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That's more about the quality of suspension/and or bike design than the amount of travel. My first "suspended" mountain bike was a Moots YBB, with a very mechanical and limited travel rear "suspension" and at the time what would today be a lousy suspension fork (but at the time was pretty "good"). You can get a very good pedaling bike even with up to 6" of travel....but depends on the bike/design. Cheap bikes won't generally be in this area. Often with cheap bikes you may as well stay rigid than bother with cheap suspension components/design.
That's kinda what I was thinking although I never imagined a 6 incher could have tight damping for climbing and bump peddling.
 

Chrispy

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That's kinda what I was thinking although I never imagined a 6 incher could have tight damping for climbing and bump peddling.
I have a few that do just fine. Santa Cruz VPP designs.

ps Dave Weagle suspension designs are used with great success in a variety of brands, too
 

Doodski

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I have a few that do just fine. Santa Cruz VPP designs.

ps Dave Weagle suspension designs are used with great success in a variety of brands, too
That's paramount to a motorcycle dirt bike suspension.
 

Chrispy

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My discomfort was having the front wheel crank around and launch me into the bars as I tumbled down the road on a touring 10 speed. as the seat beat my lower back into submission. ~6 weeks in the hospital with very bruised kidneys pissing blood was the result. So I am cautious now with road bikes and skinny tires. :D Worst wipeout I've ever had and I've had some pretty radical motorcycle wipeouts.
Your wheel came in contact with your foot on the pedal or ?
 

Doodski

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Your wheel came in contact with your foot on the pedal or ?
I went over a rock and the front wheel turned all the way around to the stops. I went tumbling end over end from front to back. I was buggering around being silly and cranking turns and hit the rock. Almost was run over by a car too.
 
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