restorer-john
Grand Contributor
Pics or it didn't happen.
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What is on your workbench right now?
Setting up my Winter (or at least Autumn) project.
Many years ago I was given a mono Leak Point One pre-amp from the 1950s. Never found a use for it, but kept it as it was a nice thing to look at. The front panel has a couple of darker spots, but is otherwise in good condition with all the legending intact.
Last winter I built a pair of GEC 9-12 plus amplifiers, which I've been using in my study driven from a modern 8 channel mixer on my desk.
It occurred to me that the Leak front panel would look more in keeping, and take up less space, so have decided to convert it to stereo.
I've removed the circuitry, based on a pair of EF86 valves, and will replace it with a stereo pre-amp circuit based on 5532 chips.
The phono section will include a balanced input for MC cartridges using a pair of microphone transformers from a Millbank mixer and the pre-amp will have a balanced output using DRV134 chips. I'll keep the front panel original and just have to ignore the legending for the various record equalisation standards of the era.
I'm planning to make a polished wooden box to house the pre-amp and have it free-standing on my desk.
I've thought long and hard about destroying the original circuitry, but feel that I'd rather have the unit functioning, albeit with modern internals, than just sitting unused in a cupboard. It will be powered by an external SMPS providing +-15v as I happen to have one doing nothing.
Here's the front panel and chassis ready to start fitting the new connectors and boards.
Many years ago I was given a mono Leak Point One pre-amp from the 1950s. Never found a use for it, but kept it as it was a nice thing to look at. The front panel has a couple of darker spots, but is otherwise in good condition with all the legending intact.
Last winter I built a pair of GEC 9-12 plus amplifiers, which I've been using in my study driven from a modern 8 channel mixer on my desk.
It occurred to me that the Leak front panel would look more in keeping, and take up less space, so have decided to convert it to stereo.
I've removed the circuitry, based on a pair of EF86 valves, and will replace it with a stereo pre-amp circuit based on 5532 chips.
The phono section will include a balanced input for MC cartridges using a pair of microphone transformers from a Millbank mixer and the pre-amp will have a balanced output using DRV134 chips. I'll keep the front panel original and just have to ignore the legending for the various record equalisation standards of the era.
I'm planning to make a polished wooden box to house the pre-amp and have it free-standing on my desk.
I've thought long and hard about destroying the original circuitry, but feel that I'd rather have the unit functioning, albeit with modern internals, than just sitting unused in a cupboard. It will be powered by an external SMPS providing +-15v as I happen to have one doing nothing.
Here's the front panel and chassis ready to start fitting the new connectors and boards.
Ricardus
Addicted to Fun and Learning
Some braided things and at the other end of the bench, a cassette deck re-belt and general clean-up. (Yamaha KX-670)
restorer-john
Grand Contributor
I needed a new turntable for my bench as my old one was unstable with large pieces of gear. I have a 32kg Pioneer SX-1250 here and constantly standing up to turn it around is no fun.
So, here's my new turntable. Low profile (30mm). Extremely stable. Turn with one finger. Will fit large and heavy components but not take up too much room.
350mmx450mm solid Acacia hardwood chopping board with rounded corners.
12" ball bearing aluminium lazy susan plate. (two brass washers under each screw to lift the mech clear of the base)
Polypropylene carpet tile cut to suit and contact adhesive attached.
Black painted edges (masked off) to complete the look.
So, here's my new turntable. Low profile (30mm). Extremely stable. Turn with one finger. Will fit large and heavy components but not take up too much room.
350mmx450mm solid Acacia hardwood chopping board with rounded corners.
12" ball bearing aluminium lazy susan plate. (two brass washers under each screw to lift the mech clear of the base)
Polypropylene carpet tile cut to suit and contact adhesive attached.
Black painted edges (masked off) to complete the look.
bothu
Member
60 years old Tape recorder renovation.
I bought this tape recorder on a flea market for 12$, 10 years back.
It is a Tandberg model 845.
It has been standing in the basement until now. Last week I wanted to test it.
It started with a loud popping sound and then smoke coming out of it.
I opened it and inspected if I could see any damage. I found that one capacitor had a black hole on it and all the other of the same brand had cracks on the surfaces.
All of them had approx. 2 times the capacitance value and a resistance value that were not infinity.
I also ordered a new rubber belt and a Pinch roller.
I also measured the electrolytic capacitors and they where OK.
This tape recorder must nearly have been standing unused all these years.
It looks nearly new.
And now it works quite well.
Summary of this work : Do not trust capacitors made in Sweden !
Bo Thunér from Sweden
I bought this tape recorder on a flea market for 12$, 10 years back.
It is a Tandberg model 845.
It has been standing in the basement until now. Last week I wanted to test it.
It started with a loud popping sound and then smoke coming out of it.
I opened it and inspected if I could see any damage. I found that one capacitor had a black hole on it and all the other of the same brand had cracks on the surfaces.
All of them had approx. 2 times the capacitance value and a resistance value that were not infinity.
I also ordered a new rubber belt and a Pinch roller.
I also measured the electrolytic capacitors and they where OK.
This tape recorder must nearly have been standing unused all these years.
It looks nearly new.
And now it works quite well.
Summary of this work : Do not trust capacitors made in Sweden !
Bo Thunér from Sweden
Too bad, gonna take some work to get er goin.
But cosmetically, what a beauty, looks like brand new.
I'd say it's worth restoring for that fact alone.
restorer-john
Grand Contributor
Looks like a classic Rifa explosion. Pretty standard stuff- those caps are just bombs.
restorer-john
Grand Contributor
She's really pretty alright.
Philbo King
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My 1991 Gibson ES355 BB King model came (from Ebay) without a pickguard. So I made a pattern for a new one by tracing & scaling web images, then cutting it out with a jewelers saw, beveling the edge, and polishing it with a variety of sandpapers, ending with 3000 grit. Fun project!
Philbo King
Addicted to Fun and Learning
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Yes. It's a 6 position switch that dials up a variety of tones, moving from a humbucker tone towards a Fender tone.
Looks perfect, nice job!
As he is getting rid of some of his excess tools, my father gave some to me. In the bottom of the toolbox, there was a bit of nostalgia for me - my first multimeter. It is a Micronta and has to be close to 50 years old.
Wanted to see if it still works so I cracked it open. It needed a 9 volt and AA battery. You can see the rather old 9v in the lower part of the pic. The newer Energizer AA had burst halfway open and so required significant cleaning. After that was done, did a continuity check and battery measurement. It is still working!
With 3 digital multimeters around, not sure what I will do with this one, but was fun seeing that it was still usable after all this time.
Wanted to see if it still works so I cracked it open. It needed a 9 volt and AA battery. You can see the rather old 9v in the lower part of the pic. The newer Energizer AA had burst halfway open and so required significant cleaning. After that was done, did a continuity check and battery measurement. It is still working!
With 3 digital multimeters around, not sure what I will do with this one, but was fun seeing that it was still usable after all this time.
As he is getting rid of some of his excess tools, my father gave some to me. In the bottom of the toolbox, there was a bit of nostalgia for me - my first multimeter. It is a Micronta and has to be close to 50 years old.
View attachment 337212
Wanted to see if it still works so I cracked it open. It needed a 9 volt and AA battery. You can see the rather old 9v in the lower part of the pic. The newer Energizer AA had burst halfway open and so required significant cleaning. After that was done, did a continuity check and battery measurement. It is still working!
With 3 digital multimeters around, not sure what I will do with this one, but was fun seeing that it was still usable after all this time.
Oh, very nice to see it!
I still use almost same one frequently...
Where do you put the DUT ?
I have another wide work desk (150 x 90 cm) with two PC monitors on it (dual EIZO FlexScan EV2750, so 5120 x 1440 pixel desktop), 50 cm away from the tool desk...
Under my that work desk, I have two powerful Xeon-CPU PC workstations!
Under my that work desk, I have two powerful Xeon-CPU PC workstations!
For our audio/electric/electronic DIY, suitable and robust cable/wire strippers and crimpers are the musts, I believe.
In my case, old style but reliable and robust ones...
In my case, old style but reliable and robust ones...
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As he is getting rid of some of his excess tools, my father gave some to me. In the bottom of the toolbox, there was a bit of nostalgia for me - my first multimeter. It is a Micronta and has to be close to 50 years old.
View attachment 337212
Wanted to see if it still works so I cracked it open. It needed a 9 volt and AA battery. You can see the rather old 9v in the lower part of the pic. The newer Energizer AA had burst halfway open and so required significant cleaning. After that was done, did a continuity check and battery measurement. It is still working!
With 3 digital multimeters around, not sure what I will do with this one, but was fun seeing that it was still usable after all this time.
Not a great start to my 2024 as I tested this meter more and found it was not very accurate.
The 2 functions I mainly use are resistance and AC voltage. Neither one was stable even after replacing the probes. So I opened it up and discovered some other ugliness…The battery corrosion had migrated to the underside of the switch PCB. I hit with contact cleaner and cleaned up pretty well but the negative 1.5v connection to the board broke off and tried to resolder. This strained some other brittle wiring and lost 2 more connections so decided it was no longer worth my time. Packed it up and is headed for the multimeter grave yard.
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