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No. Like to test them but too expensive for me to buy. So maybe a member gets one.Triangle borea br03 on the review docket?
No. Like to test them but too expensive for me to buy. So maybe a member gets one.Triangle borea br03 on the review docket?
I watched every review I could find. They all got free samples and clearly confused by the non-uniform frequency response giving assessments that were all over the place.Another highly-rated speaker destroyed by science..
Yeah, look at this graph for this speaker:I saw that before. We have very good correlation but boy, are their measurements messy. They have a ton of low frequency room modes in addition to three lines all black on top of each other. And in a compressed graph no less. I wonder if they do this to make it hard for anyone to decipher.
Would you say people should spend the extra $35 for the ELAC 6.2?
It got a headless panther and has a sensitivity of 80dB.I'd say people should spend less than half as much and get the RB42s! lol...
It got a headless panther and has a sensitivity of 80dB.
Quite frankly you will need coaxil design, really the only way to pull that off for high fidelity due to the angles. You will need a larger speaker and woofer or a subwoofer and active high pass. Not many (maybe not any??)small 5.25 inch drivers can play truly loudly with bass in a large room. Of course if you just need "medium" fidelity. There are more options.I sent these in. Very disappointed, but that's what the testing is for, so back to Amazon they go. I can see these working in a small room where they are against a wall, toed in, and run at moderate volume. But for me, placed near the ceiling in a large room and played loud they would emphasize that vertical suck-out and load up on distortion. So.... moving on.
Well it's sitting higher up on the preference Y axis and much further to the left on the cost X axis. It seems to me the panther awarding has changed a bit over time too...mostly just joking around though.
I am thinking Elac Debut Reference DBR62 (then I will have to get a sub) or Revel M105, but with the extra cost I'll have to forego the sub.Quite frankly you will need coaxil design, really the only way to pull that off for high fidelity due to the angles. You will need a larger speaker and woofer or a subwoofer and active high pass. Not many (maybe not any??)small 5.25 inch drivers can play truly loudly with bass in a large room. Of course if you just need "medium" fidelity. There are more options.
The lack of frequency weighting. Panther award is partly (mainly?) based on subjective listening too, and I would hate a lot of highs vs just a bit.
Very large and expensive inductor that most people will not need. (cost more than the drivers)
Just use an electronic crossover or maybe for some who listen at the lower volume levels this extra bass extension is actually nice.
I do have a few including an Adam.Btw Amirm, do you have some more budget powered speakers in queue for measurement? Adam T5V, Genelec 8020D, kef egg etc. Come to my mind
JBL 550P on sale for $199. Not a fantastic sub but great for the price...and worlds better than bookshelves without a sub. AVR should take care of any distance difference.....??I am thinking Elac Debut Reference DBR62 (then I will have to get a sub) or Revel M105, but with the extra cost I'll have to forego the sub.
Net cost would be close to the same but I'm concerned the sub is 11 ms closer to my listening position so integration could be a problem.
Disturbed by the high distortion in low frequencies, I tried a technique with the last speaker I tested: put in a sharp filter below 40 Hz. To my pleasant surprise, this had big effect on fidelity, increasing detail in frequencies well above its effective range. Clarity improved good deal. I am going to keep experimenting with this but seems like it is best to not let these small speakers to try to reproduce very low frequencies.
JBL 550P on sale for $199. Not a fantastic sub but great for the price...and worlds better than bookshelves without a sub. AVR should take care of any distance difference.....??
M16($6-700) plus a sub would be better than almost any bookshelf and no sub imo. $900 total with the JBL sub, or $1100 with a pair.
I just picked up a 550p on sale. Have not tested it yet but I did unpack it and inspect the driver and internals (my usual routine whenever I get new speakers). The driver is WAY nicer than I thought it would be. Aluminum cast frame and huge magnet. The enclosure is 1” MDF and the overall construction is so much better than any $199 (delivered price with no tax) deserves to be. It weighs 50lbs and has a powerful amp as well. I’ll post more when I have a chance to fire it up and measure it. I’m waiting for a splitter for my preamp because I only have two preamp outs and I’m using the second set for my existing two subs (Peerless XLS with Peerless PR’s).
My current subs are well integrated with an active digital xover. I may run the third sub through the xover eventually or through minidsp. Need to sort out a couple things and I’ll probably purchase the Minidsp HD and use Dirac. I’m just not sure if I can run three subs with the minidsp. It was an impulse buy and if it sounds half as good as it looks, the 550p (Sale price) might be one of the best bargains in Audio land.
I picked up a 550 on trade when I sold my big BMS subs...it does a great job in my workout room. Although It wouldn't come close to meeting my needs in my main system, adding it to *any* bookshelf system not using a sub would be a huge upgrade. A pair at $399 would be even better.