Hi,
I've recently done the same modification to my own amplifier. I used
@Chart's .fpd-file as template and went for a more basic design:
- 3 mm black anodized base plate
- 7x M3-threads
- 14x M3-holes, countersunk
The plate was manufactured by
Schaeffer AG (Germany).
I have attached a picture of the amplifier before the modification, the custom mounting plate, and two photos of the finished project.
I bought the screws for mounting the new plate to the primary plate from
Accu.co.uk, went for black stainless steel (M3 x 10 mm).
I think that seven steel screws in 3 mm alloy threads is secure enough, blue Loctite could maybe be an option. But if the threads strip I have 3 mm protruding threads that I can tighten with the nuts and washers similar to your case. See attached screw order.
I ordered a mains
Y-cable and a
harness-kit from Ghentaudio, connected J2 - J5 (18 V).
I've also ordered some thin
thermal pads (0.5 mm) to enhance heat transfer between the two plates. However, I'm undecided about installing them since the Schaeffer plate already ensures a solid contact due to its precise manufacturing tolerances.
The amplifier drive two DIY-speakers,
Toids Epic HiFi Speaker.
Pushed them to 110 dB @ 45 Hz the other day, don't need more power anytime soon, that's for sure. I've also stress tested the amplifier in a party setting, averaging 105 dB on the "dance floor" for 4 hours, the amplifer got hot, but no harm done, although clipping was not very far away with some songs.
Those speakers can become quite boomy in my living room, therefore I have applied minimum phase filters (0 - 225 Hz) using
@OCA's
tutorial, easy to understand and very effective at correcting bass response, highly recommend.
Cheers!
