Passive radiator. There's a variant using a reflex port instead.They are beautiful. Is the cone on the side of the cabinet driven or is it a passive radiator?
Just downloaded it and listened on the mobile phone: impossible to evaluate the sound this way. Will give it a try this evening with HP.If somebody is asking about "how does it sound":
I have tried a recording with an "Voice Recorder Oly LS-P4" on listening position in my room. The track is common known and so you can imagine a little bit about the sound.
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The problem is:
The recording is not as good as it shoudl be. Noisy, the bass level is too boomy (compared to the real situation), too less resolution in the middles and so on. But compared to some other trials about sound recording on yt, i think its not so bad at all. So enjoy and thell me what you think about this trial.
Greetings, Walter
Super post, congrats on this build. I am late to this party, but I'm getting ready to start my build of DXT-MON next month. I believe that the material I am going to use with the Butyl damping layers is called (American English): tempered hardboard.Super post, most enjoyable and interesting, I would bet your English is very much better than most people here's German.
Bravo
Hello,
the cut out in the back side is very comfortable for integrating the comparable big cross board but necessary is this opening definitely not. You have the opening from the bass driver and also the passive radiator and enough space to do this work. I have ordered the cabinets from a cnc manufacturer and so the cost impact was not huge for the opening on back side and the rear panel is adiitinally chamfered 45 degrees to fit perfectly to the other parts. There is no gap or other things visible, perfect wood work still after a lot of months.
greetings, Walter
Hi @EXIF68 ! Looks amazing!Next step was sanding the cabinets and giving them the last "outfit" with a special furniture oil. This oil gives a good lock to the veneer and is really easy to handle. no problems with lacquer noses and such things.
After oiling sanding with 1000-Paper and oiling again... several times. all together 6 layers including polishing
I fall into that category as well.Very nice! I always envy you guys that can do really good woodwork. That's a talent that escapes me.
Hi Walter!Hello Vavilen,
my cabinets are in the same condition as two years ago. No change in wood behavior or else. The color was getting a little bit darker but they are still looking good. The surface quality is also very stable.
one point I forget to mention above: I have stored the raw housing materials for several months in the music room before gluing and finishing. Enough time for perfect wood humidity.
my cabinets have only a few layers of oiling. 6 layer furniture oil would be not too bad at all. Try it.
The best about this speakers: they still sounding very, very fine. Perfect for such low expensive systems.
greetings, Walter
Hi Walter!Hello,
the crossover network on my system is mounted on a 4mm epoxy boards, size adustet to fit on the back wall inside the cubicle. I have no detailed pictures from the mounting process, but I think you can imagine it. The epoxy boards are mounted with wood screws and 1cm distant rolls so that there is no tension on the mounted components.
the coils are fixed with M4 brass screws (worm holes done by 3,2mm drilling’s and M4 stew taps). This works fine in 4mm epoxy boards and capacitors, resistors are fixed with cable ties on the board as well. wired together by soldering the connecting wires together, additional use of 1,5mm2 massive Silver coated Cu wire. Connections are done by brass screw terminals on the epoxy boards.
greetings,
Walter
I must not recall , I can measure it: exactly 27 Degrees.
greetings, Walter
A question from ignorance: why is it the square root? I would have made a guess that it went like the area, ie, the square of the radius.Yeh, that's to be expected. The added mass reduces both the frequency and SPL of the output passive radiator's output.
There's no right or wrong here, just different system Q.
One thing, though, is that if you're measuring in the nearfield, you need to take into account that the passive membrane has a larger radiating surface than the woofer. So you need to scale the measurements by the square roots of the radiating diameters.
In this case, your woofer's Sd is 93cm^2 and your passive radiator's Sd is 130cm^2, which implies that their diameters are approximately 10.9cm and 12.9cm, respectively.
If we take the square roots of the diamters we get about 3.3 for the woofer and 3.6 for the passivate radiator, which means that, for the graphs to be more accurate, you should increase the plot amplitude of the passive radiator by a factor of 3.6/3.3 = 1.09 (approxmitately).
Of course, that will not take into account baffle step. But it will at least allow you to display the measurements for the passive radiator and the woofer more accurately in relation to each other (and should bring the passive radiator's peak up closer to the woofer's output level).
Having said all of that, you're going to be listening to this speaker in your room, and the room will be the main factor in determining the bass response. So you may as well choose the passive radiator tuning that works best in your room.