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Anthem AVM70 Review (AV Processor)

peng

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I was looking at this, along with the buckeye models, Wish the Monoprice was a 10-channel.
The 100 W Monolith on sale for $500 less is a good choice for the aurround/height channels, plus a 3 channel buckeye NC502MP you will have one spare channel.
 

ryaneagon

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A lot of people want a 1-box solution, but consider what happens if a channel dies: you are potentially out all channels while you get one repaired.
While you don't need to go all in on Monoblocks... :p
...Consider getting an Amp for your Front 3, then an amp or two for the remaining Bed Layer (Surround, Rear) and Atmos setup as needed. If you are running 5.x.4, then do a more powerful 3-channel up front, and a 6 channel for the Surrounds and Atmos, or even an 8-channel for Surround, Rear and .4 Atmos.
The Hypex Ncore MP amps that Buckeye offers are a great choice for this as you can get any combination of 2-, 4-, 6- or 8- Channel Amps in the 252 or 502 models.

Nothing against other options like Monolith, but to me it's more a matter of pragmatics and compartmentalization. *shrugs ;)

Thanks for your insight.

I'm most likely going this route.

Buckeye

Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier, 3-channel (LCR)

Hypex NC252MP Amplifier, 6-channel

 

peng

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Thanks for your insight.

I'm most likely going this route.

Buckeye

Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier, 3-channel (LCR)

Hypex NC252MP Amplifier, 6-channel


That would be a very nice combination with the AVM, but you said "I was looking at this, along with the buckeye models, Wish the Monoprice was a 10-channel." That's why I thought the 8 channel Monolith class D NC252MP) was a better option (only because of the $500 off deal) for you...
 

freedomgli

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Thanks for your insight.

I'm most likely going this route.

Buckeye

Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier, 3-channel (LCR)

Hypex NC252MP Amplifier, 6-channel

I’ve got the AVM 70 8K and I’m thinking of the Buckeye Hypex NC502MP 4-channel for LCR (to save a little $ and have an extra channel for troubleshooting/ backup purposes in case one decides to act up) and two Hypex NC252MP 6-channel amps to cover my surrounds and overheads in my 9.2.6 system.

I don’t see the need to pay more for the Purifi modules. I plan to do rack mount cases for all 3 amps and speakON connectors for the two surround amps. My only question is whether to also do the speakON connector upgrade for my LCR amp, since that is likely the only power amp that might conceivably change someday in the future and using regular binding posts would save me the hassle of cutting off the Neutrik speakON connectors to fit regular binding posts on the new amp as so few HT and “audiophile” amps use speakON. My in-wall speaker wires have extra length for service loops so not a big deal to lose a few inches of wire. But still, I wonder if speakON is worthwhile in that one particular application. I probably will just to have the security of a positive locking connector.
 

peng

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I’ve got the AVM 70 8K and I’m thinking of the Buckeye Hypex NC502MP 4-channel for LCR (to save a little $ and have an extra channel for troubleshooting/ backup purposes in case one decides to act up) and two Hypex NC252MP 6-channel amps to cover my surrounds and overheads in my 9.2.6 system.

I don’t see the need to pay more for the Purifi modules. I plan to do rack mount cases for all 3 amps and speakON connectors for the two surround amps. My only question is whether to also do the speakON connector upgrade for my LCR amp, since that is likely the only power amp that might conceivably change someday in the future and using regular binding posts would save me the hassle of cutting off the Neutrik speakON connectors to fit regular binding posts on the new amp as so few HT and “audiophile” amps use speakON. My in-wall speaker wires have extra length for service loops so not a big deal to lose a few inches of wire. But still, I wonder if speakON is worthwhile in that one particular application. I probably will just to have the security of a positive locking connector.

I have the speakon ones but never bother trying them. To me the regular binding posts are the best, more flexible, no loss of anything. Also, we DBT'ed the NC502MP buckeye with a few other amps, they all sound transparent, and I could not tell a difference between my Purifi 1ET400A and the buckeye NC502MP either.
 

Descartes

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Not what I said, sorry for not being clear. I don't know what Anthem told the dealers. I only know the dealer I bought the 70 from told me the 90 sounded better to them and that we (2 of us customers there) that we would be able to hear it. And there was no side by side AB setup to compare the two.
Amir’s measurements will let us know if the AVM 90 is superior to the AVM 70?
 

samysound

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Can anyone comment on the latest firmware and bugs/issues?

I am considering this to replace my miniDSP SHD and setup a 2.2 system for music and TV. Does the eARC CEC work pretty well with a TV (Ill be using a Lg TV)? I would be replacing a sonos arc and dual sub combo which has been very stable and seamless in operation with the TV.
 

peng

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Can anyone comment on the latest firmware and bugs/issues?

I am considering this to replace my miniDSP SHD and setup a 2.2 system for music and TV. Does the eARC CEC work pretty well with a TV (Ill be using a Lg TV)? I would be replacing a sonos arc and dual sub combo which has been very stable and seamless in operation with the TV.

I think you are going to like the AVM70 a lot more than you like the miniDSP SHD. eARC CEC stuff is not something that I can comment on because I never like those stuff. Even with my D+M gear, there seemed to be too much work to get it work properly, too much of a high maintenance feature for me to bother using it. You can ask questions on AVS forum and someone should be able to tell you if the AVM70 got that all fixed.

There were lots of bugs/issues at launch time for sure but as of now, I am not aware of any pressing issues. If you happen to get one with the fan turns on prematurely and noisy when on, then you should get it replace right away. Don't wait like I did, and in fact you should tell your dealer ahead of time that if the fan is an issue, you want a new replacement, not a dealer arranged repair. There are just too many features and combinations of conditions of use, so I don't think anyone can tell you all known issues have been fixed, but I have been using it almost every day for 5-6 months, and have no issues. That being said, there were a couple of times when I heard some inexplicable noise coming from the surround left channel (iirc..) but it has been a rare event, may be 2 to 3 times so far. It has never happened when watching a movie or listening to music, but only when triggered by something, that I could not recall exactly what it was. If it happens again, I will make note of the cause. I never bother making note because it really isn't an issue that troubled me, just thought I should mention it since you ask.
 

samysound

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I think you are going to like the AVM70 a lot more than you like the miniDSP SHD. eARC CEC stuff is not something that I can comment on because I never like those stuff. Even with my D+M gear, there seemed to be too much work to get it work properly, too much of a high maintenance feature for me to bother using it. You can ask questions on AVS forum and someone should be able to tell you if the AVM70 got that all fixed.

There were lots of bugs/issues at launch time for sure but as of now, I am not aware of any pressing issues. If you happen to get one with the fan turns on prematurely and noisy when on, then you should get it replace right away. Don't wait like I did, and in fact you should tell your dealer ahead of time that if the fan is an issue, you want a new replacement, not a dealer arranged repair. There are just too many features and combinations of conditions of use, so I don't think anyone can tell you all known issues have been fixed, but I have been using it almost every day for 5-6 months, and have no issues. That being said, there were a couple of times when I heard some inexplicable noise coming from the surround left channel (iirc..) but it has been a rare event, may be 2 to 3 times so far. It has never happened when watching a movie or listening to music, but only when triggered by something, that I could not recall exactly what it was. If it happens again, I will make note of the cause. I never bother making note because it really isn't an issue that troubled me, just thought I should mention it since you ask.
thanks this is helpful!
 

KakaPoo

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Thanks for your insight.

I'm most likely going this route.

Buckeye

Purifi 1ET400A Amplifier, 3-channel (LCR)

Hypex NC252MP Amplifier, 6-channel

Sorry to revive an old thread....but did you go this route?

Recently orders a buckeye 3 channel purifi and 6 channels of the hypex 250s. Was going to connect it to the AVM 70 8k. With Kef R11s meta, kef r6 M for my LCR, R3 metad for my surrounds and kef q50as for my atmos.

How did you like it if you went this route?
 

MacCali

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Sorry to revive an old thread....but did you go this route?

Recently orders a buckeye 3 channel purifi and 6 channels of the hypex 250s. Was going to connect it to the AVM 70 8k. With Kef R11s meta, kef r6 M for my LCR, R3 metad for my surrounds and kef q50as for my atmos.

How did you like it if you went this route?
Just my thoughts and I am sure I will get backlash as I am the objective subjective opinionator lol. *Also please neglect if you use subs and also this is not in any way asking you to return your purchase.

For home theater I prefer class A/B amps for most my floor speakers. Reason being is I get far richer bass with that topology.

I do own two NAD M23’s and they are amazing for audio. I feel the bass is tighter and cleaner but not as visceral. That’s my only con for that amp, it’s not bad but coming from A/B and what some might consider sloppy bass I do not know.

I own many parasound HCA amps, and for home theater I went for the same line. Also a flagship Denon 3 channel amp, both being THX certified. But I really do prefer my HCA-1205.

I am certain the counter argument will be a lot of subs use internal class D amps. A fairly accurate rebuttal, but in my experience if my M23 had parasound bass it would be a full end game amp for me. I probably wouldn’t purchase another amp for a long while anyway. But that is my experience with my HT speakers which are inexpensive

Something I was very well aware of prior to purchasing the M23, but I do very much enjoy the amp hence why I purchased a second one.
 

Descartes

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Just my thoughts and I am sure I will get backlash as I am the objective subjective opinionator lol. *Also please neglect if you use subs and also this is not in any way asking you to return your purchase.

For home theater I prefer class A/B amps for most my floor speakers. Reason being is I get far richer bass with that topology.
So subjective!
 

Beershaun

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So subjective!
Just my thoughts and I am sure I will get backlash as I am the objective subjective opinionator lol. *Also please neglect if you use subs and also this is not in any way asking you to return your purchase.

For home theater I prefer class A/B amps for most my floor speakers. Reason being is I get far richer bass with that topology.

I do own two NAD M23’s and they are amazing for audio. I feel the bass is tighter and cleaner but not as visceral. That’s my only con for that amp, it’s not bad but coming from A/B and what some might consider sloppy bass I do not know.

I own many parasound HCA amps, and for home theater I went for the same line. Also a flagship Denon 3 channel amp, both being THX certified. But I really do prefer my HCA-1205.

I am certain the counter argument will be a lot of subs use internal class D amps. A fairly accurate rebuttal, but in my experience if my M23 had parasound bass it would be a full end game amp for me. I probably wouldn’t purchase another amp for a long while anyway. But that is my experience with my HT speakers which are inexpensive

Something I was very well aware of prior to purchasing the M23, but I do very much enjoy the amp hence why I purchased a second one.
My hypothesis here is the peak power for class A/b amps with similar continuous and max power to class D amps tends to be much higher. Which then gives you better bass performance. So I think it's just that you get more power when you need it. Class D amps for subwoofers tend to be much more powerful so my hypothesis would still hold in that case.
 

MacCali

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So subjective!
Super Duper. I don’t know what it is, but my room is small and I do not have a sub; not by choice.

But definitely when it comes to music the bass is absolutely different. With my A/B amps I enjoy the movie experience so much more, and it makes the experience far more immersive.

I can definitely say they do bass different, and that’s all I’m pointing out. This gentleman may dislike what I love or have his space filled with sub that will make my statements null.

In addition I own the AVM70 too.

I will say in all fairness, I have not put my M23 in my HT even though I have 4 channels, but I have used my 3 reference stereo speakers with both amps and I am getting the similar experience I preach here.
 

MacCali

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My hypothesis here is the peak power for class A/b amps with similar continuous and max power to class D amps tends to be much higher. Which then gives you better bass performance. So I think it's just that you get more power when you need it. Class D amps for subwoofers tend to be much more powerful so my hypothesis would still hold in that case.
Very might well be the case. My reference speakers in addition are 2 ported and 1 sealed. Which is a factor for subs. The M23 has loads of power and even in my initial demo of the M33 which made me buy it I tried it out on a couple pairs of speakers.

YG acous, dynaudio, focals, speakers which out class my home reference speakers and the bass is the only thing I wish had like a few more clicks on that visceral bass output. Similarly with the M23 but I bought it knowing this and it is an outstanding amp.
 

peng

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My hypothesis here is the peak power for class A/b amps with similar continuous and max power to class D amps tends to be much higher. Which then gives you better bass performance. So I think it's just that you get more power when you need it. Class D amps for subwoofers tend to be much more powerful so my hypothesis would still hold in that case.
I think you may be right in specific cases, but not likely as a general rule. How about pick an example, naming two such amps, one AB, another D, both by reputable manufacturers, with comparable specs, confirmed by measurements.

Let me start first, I would name the ATI amps:


So, based on objective measurements, the AT6002 did meet (exceed slightly) the specified 300/450 W 8/4 ohms.
The AT522NC (Hypex class D), also meet and exceed specs (slightly also) 200/300 8/4 ohms.

Amir has not measured any comparable 200/300 W ATI class AB amps so it is hard to compare them very well, though if you read through the details provided in the linked reviews above, you will not find evidence of the class AB AT6002 doing better with peak output into 4 ohms, or 8 ohms.

Here's a subjective review/comparison by @RichB :


Personally, I don't put much value in such subjective reviews, and I always doubt whether Richb can pick the duts out every time in he did a truly controlled DBT even though I know he's really confident he could still do it or had actually done it that way. In this case, we go by Richb's, the class AB amp (AT4002) did not do better in bass, in fact the other way around seemed to be true, to him. To others though, the impression could well be the opposite to Richb's and that's the nature of subjective review, you won't find consistency among reviewers unless you limit the sample size to just a few, even then, it could still be all over the place.
 

MacCali

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I think you may be right in specific cases, but not likely as a general rule. How about pick an example, naming two such amps, one AB, another D, both by reputable manufacturers, with comparable specs, confirmed by measurements.

Let me start first, I would name the ATI amps:


So, based on objective measurements, the AT6002 did meet (exceed slightly) the specified 300/450 W 8/4 ohms.
The AT522NC (Hypex class D), also meet and exceed specs (slightly also) 200/300 8/4 ohms.

Amir has not measured any comparable 200/300 W ATI class AB amps so it is hard to compare them very well, though if you read through the details provided in the linked reviews above, you will not find evidence of the class AB AT6002 doing better with peak output into 4 ohms, or 8 ohms.

Here's a subjective review/comparison by @RichB :


Personally, I don't put much value in such subjective reviews, and I always doubt whether Richb can pick the duts out every time in he did a truly controlled DBT even though I know he's really confident he could still do it or had actually done it that way. In this case, we go by Richb's, the class AB amp (AT4002) did not do better in bass, in fact the other way around seemed to be true, to him. To others though, the impression could well be the opposite to Richb's and that's the nature of subjective review, you won't find consistency among reviewers unless you limit the sample size to just a few, even then, it could still be all over the place.
Thank you for your input. See even with that I can agree with.. my comments are based on the fact he is clearly going to be using home theater and again not implying my thoughts should change any of his decisions.

I feel as though the class D does a better job with bass in a more music/stereo set scene. However when movies go low and at the same time considering my towers only go to 45 I bet maybe higher. That lower bass is what shines through.

Personally not sure how often music goes into those registers or it may simply be an explosion or similar scene in a movie where something extravagant is occurring isn’t the same response a driver reproduces.

Not sure how specific frequencies vs one giant burst of frequency works. I do not know.

Those are the times I feel I am getting more from A/B. But again I still use both amps on my speakers depending on my mood and even the bass on music seems to provide similar outcome.

Maybe another perspective would be and I know this one will definitely not sound reasonable but it’s to help get where I am coming from. That A/B topology seems like the driver is getting more excursion and my class D has faster start stop or control of the bass. Most likely is absolutely wrong but again what I would say is happening to get you guys on the same page on what I am getting at
 

peng

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Those are the times I feel I am getting more from A/B. But again I still use both amps on my speakers depending on my mood and even the bass on music seems to provide similar outcome.

Maybe another perspective would be and I know this one will definitely not sound reasonable but it’s to help get where I am coming from. That A/B topology seems like the driver is getting more excursion and my class D has faster start stop or control of the bass. Most likely is absolutely wrong but again what I would say is happening to get you guys on the same page on what I am getting at
Okay, that sounds interesting, and I will take a good read of the NAD M23 specs, and measurements if there are any, and try to see if there are things that support the characteristics you observed. The M23's specs are truly impressive, wish I have one.

Update: Finished reading the specs or the HCA1205A, could not find anything about HCA1205. If based on the 1205A, there is nothing I found that could indicate that amp could produce more authoritative bass in your room using your speakers. There has to be another reason, or the only way to find out is do a level matched DBT or even SBT comparison test (not implying anything, but..;))

By the way, we did compare my Parasound A21 (much more powerful than the HCA1205 except it is 2 ch only), to my tiny buckeye amp, heard no difference and measured virtually the same in FR using REW, level matched. Tried both at very low level as well as at moderately loud level. At low level, it would have been a case of class A vs class D because the A21 runs in class A to about 8 W, or 16 W 4 ohms.
 
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MacCali

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Okay, that sounds interesting, and I will take a good read of the NAD M23 specs, and measurements if there are any, and try to see if there are things that support the characteristics you observed. The M23's specs are truly impressive, wish I have one.

Update: Finished reading the specs or the HCA1205A, could not find anything about HCA1205. If based on the 1205A, there is nothing I found that could indicate that amp could produce more authoritative bass in your room using your speakers. There has to be another reason, or the only way to find out is do a level matched DBT or even SBT comparison test (not implying anything, but..;))

By the way, we did compare my Parasound A21 (much more powerful than the HCA1205 except it is 2 ch only), to my tiny buckeye amp, heard no difference and measured virtually the same in FR using REW, level matched. Tried both at very low level as well as at moderately loud level. At low level, it would have been a case of class A vs class D because the A21 runs in class A to about 8 W, or 16 W 4 ohms.
Yes the class A portion maybe something I really doubt it though. I will say to my ears, I do not like the performance of the newer parasound amps. They sound different than the HCA line.

The A in the amp only actually notates a 12v trigger I believe. I’ve read about it before, if my memory serves me correct.

Overall the experience simply comes down to something is different, or how I perceive the bass between the amps. This is my first legit class D amp and I’ve stuck to A/B for that reason. For me it’s A, A/B and tubes.

Some may consider it unfair to “rush” to judgement but in my experience at audio shows I’m not liking most class D amps. I know many will say that’s foolish, but the only amps I’ve heard and said that’s really nice; meaning I would purchase it. Was the bel canto black and the AGD tube isolated amp. Then came the M33 which led to me the M23
 
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