A lot of rooms are fine with a single sub. Situations are not always the same to make such a statement.The answer is always to have at least two subs, and use dsp room equalization.
Are the subs an upgrade to my Rel T/I 9's?Just FYI - Arendal 1961 entire product line including subs will go up 15% in a few days: https://arendalsound.com/1961-series-price-increase/
Are the subs an upgrade to my Rel T/I 9's?
as a follow up, I didn't listen to you guys. Bought the pair of Rythmiks, sold the Funk 18", and I'm consumed with regret. The Rythmiks are capable enough, sure, probably good enough for "normal" people and content over 20hz. But overall, not impressed with the performance... going from a perfect subwoofer to these, so many sacrifices are evident.We recently moved and have some new family additions, so the HT is going into quite a small, narrow room and volume levels are going to be drastically limited for several years now until the babies grow up. The 18" is so big I can't actually fit it on the front wall without offsetting the center to one side, and it's too tall to have the center sitting on top of it without mounting the TV bizarrely high on the wall.
The L12s are selling used local for a good price so it shouldn't be a big problem coming out ahead on the deal.
Checking the data-bass tests of Rythmiks against Rythmik's site, apparently 95dB is accurate. Rythmik says F18 is +7.5dB up at 20hz relative to the F12, FV25HP +17dB, FV18 +14dB... taking data-bass number's and subtracting Rythmik's relative performance claims you end up within 1-2 decibels of Brent's number... wow. Very impressive stuff. Can't wait to get the new subs.
ExactlySo you bought a pair of 12” subs, sold your 18” sub and now regret it?
My spreadsheet show you the numbers. Such statements are meaningless.it would take 3 SB SVS’s to equal the SPL of one PB SVS.
For the same cut-off frequency, a sealed subwoofer has a better transient response than a ported subwoofer. This is by virtue of a sealed enclosure being a 2nd-order high-pass filter, while a ported enclosure will have a 4th-order high-pass filter response. Of course, many subwoofers add infrasonic filters, so the effective filter response order will increase. An infrasonic filter is more likely to be present on a ported subwoofer, as there will otherwise be very large cone excursions below the port resonance frequency that can be excited by very low frequency signal content. The more-gradual roll-off of a sealed subwoofer also tends to complement the room gain at low frequencies, so overall it can produce very good results in the room.I was wondering what everyone's opinion is on the ported vs sealed boxes beside the obvious that the ported will always have a higher DB rating than its sealed sibling. I have always had sealed boxes from car stereos up to home theater and my current stereo setup. I'm going to be doing upgrading this year and just thought I'd like to hear what everyone else thinks.
I know. I printed out the three pages with the SVS subs on it and highlighted them with a marker that’s how I came to the conclusion about the the SVS 3000 and SVS 13 Ultra. I like to know who prefers the ported or sealed and for what reasons.My spreadsheet show you the numbers. Such statements are meaningless.
I personally have always favored the sealed versions over ported designs. They just always sounded better to me in any application over ported.For the same cut-off frequency, a sealed subwoofer has a better transient response than a ported subwoofer. This is by virtue of a sealed enclosure being a 2nd-order high-pass filter, while a ported enclosure will have a 4th-order high-pass filter response. Of course, many subwoofers add infrasonic filters, so the effective filter response order will increase. An infrasonic filter is more likely to be present on a ported subwoofer, as there will otherwise be very large cone excursions below the port resonance frequency that can be excited by very low frequency signal content. The more gradual roll-off of a sealed subwoofer also tends to complement the room gain at low frequencies, so overall it can produce very good results in the room.
Well it depends on room size, placement, and which frequency is the bottleneck for your setup. You'll get 6dB for each extra sub if they're within 1/4 wavelength, which they usually will be at the bottom end unless the room is fairly large and they're in opposing corners or something. The ported subs are also much bigger, around double the volume for the SB-1000 vs PB for example.I know. I printed out the three pages with the SVS subs on it and highlighted them with a marker that’s how I came to the conclusion about the the SVS 3000 and SVS 13 Ultra. I like to know who prefers the ported or sealed and for what reasons.
If the sub has separate inputs and signals for each driver, or built-in EQ, and the cabinet is very big so they are separated by at least 3 or 4 feet, it could work. Otherwise no.What about a Sub with multiple drivers, say one active and 2 passive drivers, does that solve anything, would one sub then work?
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So right now I have a Definitive Technology SuperCube I. Which Is an active 10" with two passive radiators. It's so old now It's hard to find info on it any more. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-FeKHKZ3viWU/p_735SCUBE1/Definitive-Technology-SuperCube-I.htmlIf the sub has separate inputs and signals for each driver, or built-in EQ, and the cabinet is very big so they are separated by at least 3 or 4 feet, it could work. Otherwise no.
The Genelec W371A is something like this.